Tokyo 2020: Shauna Coxsey qualifies in first place for climbing Olympic selection finals

IFSC Climbing World Championships - Day 8: Combined Women's Qualification

Leading British climber Shauna Coxsey is in an excellent position ahead of the combined World Championship finals in Hachioji, Japan placing top of the qualification leader board.

The combined event, which is newly created for the Tokyo 2020, involves competing across three disciplines – bouldering, speed climbing and lead climbing. 

Coxsey got off to a successful start in the combined qualifications, placing first for the bouldering event having topped all four problems on her first attempt.

Next up was the lead event and although Coxsey did not reach the top of the climbing wall, due to where she was on the wall before she fell, she placed third, scoring 36 points. Japan's Ai Mori was the only competitor to top the route.

Speed climbing was Coxsey's least successful discipline in the combined qualification where she finished in 14th, completing her climb in 10.422 seconds. The fastest climb in qualification was 7.32 seconds for Poland's Alexandra Miroslaw.

The results of all three events gave Coxsey a total of 42 points and placed her at the top of the leaderboard and going into the combined finals ranked first. She is one of only eight climbers who will compete in the combined final for the World Championship title. A place at Tokyo 2020 is also on the line for the finalists as the top seven competitors will secure their ticket to the Olympics.

Coxsey entered qualifications for the combined event ranked third for the event. This was based on her performances competing in the individual disciplines at the IFSC Climbing World Championships where she became the first British woman to win a podium finish at the Climbing World Championships after taking home a bronze medal in bouldering – her specialism.

Upon discovering her table-topping result, Coxsey wrote on her Instagram:

The women's combined finals take place on Tuesday 20th and Coxsey will have her eyes firmly set on achieving Olympic qualification. Judging from her performance in qualifications, a podium finish could also be within reach. 

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